Kamloops Naturalist Club - Kumsheen River Rafting 2016 July 8 - 10, 2016

A group of us from the Kamloops Naturalist Club did a river rafting expedition (one-day floating, one-day white water) with Kumsheen Rafting down the Thompson River in British Columbia from Ashcroft to Lytton.  We floated the most spectacular of rivers through scenic spectacles in areas filled with history, birds, flowers, plants, animals and geological marvels that otherwise are nearly impossible to access by road.  With an invitation like that, who could refuse.

When my friend and I got there, the parking lot was positively hopping. People coming in from motor rafting, power paddling, climbing and who knows what all in various stages of dress and undress from wet clothes, wetsuits to casual clothes – all with huge grins on their faces.

We got settled in our tent cabin (overlooking the Thompson River and two railways – more of that later).  The Canvas Cabins (per the Resort web site) have been described as “rustic luxury”, completely waterproof and constructed with a wooden frame and floors, and covered in white cotton walls. They had their own deck with benches and picnic tables for lounging. Linen and towels were provided. 

Canvas tent cabin

Wow!  We unpacked and headed up for dinner at the “Cutting Board” restaurant.  There were about 25 or us in addition to a number of families and an entire wedding party of about 40 or so.  The restaurant managed to get us in, the service was fine and we were all well fed.  After dinner we took part in an evening nature walk with the naturalists on a lovely desert-plant interpretive trail overlooking some of the most spectacular scenery I have ever seen. 

Interpretive Trail

As we were leaving at 8:45 in the morning, we got an early night (well, about 9:30).  Bathroom and shower facilities were about two minutes up the hill in the main building.  The beds were absolutely heavenly; however, we were close enough to the railway tracks that it seemed trains were going through (on both sides of the River) about every hour or so.  From time to time, it seemed they were coming right through the tent cabin.  Sleep was a scarce commodity but we got enough to feel at least marginally rested by morning. 

Trains and scenery

More trains and scenery

Day 1 on the River

Our delightful breakfast over, Kumsheen provided bus transportation to Ashcroft where the rafting portion of the trip began.  It rained on the way up; however, had stopped by the time we reached our “put-in”.  We were told the first day trip would be a delightful float through beautiful country seldom seen from the river - a great primer for rafting with lots of quiet water and a few bumps to wake us up. 

Heading out

We were given rain/wind jackets and pants, well tightened life jackets and a very full safety presentation including what to do if we tipped over (stay with/hang on to the raft) or fell out (lie on your back, cross arms over your chest, point yourself downstream and we’ll come and get you).  The rafts themselves were two J-shaped pontoons with a flexible wooden floor (think river water sloshing up about your feet and ankles all day) - about 22 feet long. A guide controlled the raft with an outboard motor (we drifted quietly in the calms.)

As passengers, our roles weren’t strenuous (yes, my 65 year old body needed help getting over the pontoons and into the raft).  We sat on the pontoons facing each other and were told to pay attention to a rope running the length of the rafts at about knee/calf height.  When necessary we were told we’d need to hang on to the rope as the raft bucked wildly in the big rapids. Power rafting is apparently wetter than paddle rafting.  Oh goody.

And so the adventure began.  Sure enough, it was fairly calm for the first hour or so.  I got used to my feet being totally soaked as we drifted, twisted, meandered and motored downstream past grasslands, silt cliffs, odd hoodoos, waterside bushes, river rock banks put in to prevent land loss by way of river action, parts of drystone retaining walls from the original Cariboo Wagon Road, amazing railroad construction along either bank and the frequent trains winding up and down the tracks. 

The Calm Water

Amazing scenery

Retaining Wall

Along the way we saw Lewis’ Woodpeckers, Osprey, Peregrine Falcons, Swainson’s Hawks, Golden and Bald Eagles, swallows, Rock Doves and others.  We also saw fascinating geological features:  eroded riverbank, dry, deep gullies, layers of gravel, sand and silt (deposited about 40,000 years ago when an ice dam gave way), the effect of many landslides known to have occurred during recorded time (1880s to 1980s) either due to natural wetting of the glacial lake silt or, more recently, irrigation.  One of the landslides completely blocked the river for nearly two days leaving downriver perfectly dry. 

As we went from the calms into some “rapidy” bits, I had to put my camera away to avoid it getting completely soaked.  Let me say that Bernie certainly knows how to find the most exciting, bumpy and fun rapids: we must have looked a bit like wild rodeo riders holding on to the hand line.  He took us back over some of the rapids a couple of times just to make sure we were all completely soaked.  Cue maniacal laughter from all. 

Rapidy bits

More Rapidy bits - Old Wooden Works

Coming into Black Canyon

In parts of this entry, I am referring to a wonderful book written by our guide (and owner of Kumsheen), Bernie Fandrich “British Columbia’s Majestic Thompson River” (Nicomen House Publishing, 2013).  And many thanks to the Kumsheen folks for taking the photos I was not able to.  

I also read and referred to: “Milestones on the Mighty Fraser” (C.P Lyons, J.M Dent & Sons (Canada) Limited 1950) and “Henry and Self: The Private Life of Sarah Crease 1826 - 1922” (Kathryn Bridge, Sono Nis Press, 1996).  The latter contains the diary of my great, great grandmother Sarah Lindley/Crease’s 1880 diary, which included a Cariboo wagon and sternwheeler trip in the area covered by our rafting trip.

The cliff views and deep gullies were absolutely stunning as the river pushed its way along exposing high banks of sandstone, shale (coal like in appearance due to high concentrations of carbon) and conglomerate around 150 million years ago.  About two hours into our journey, we came to our lunch spot – the amazing Black Canyon. 

Bernie’s book remarks that:

“Black Canyon’s name originates from the spectacular dark-coloured … sedimentary rocks bordering both sides of the river.  Just upstream are remnants of the original 1883 CPR trestle.  A major high-water hazard, the canyon swirls and boils with powerful eddies and large whirlpools.  The river runs straight into the canyon wall and then pushes back on itself.  It exits to the left, 90 degrees from where it enters the canyon.”  (Fandrich, p. 41)

Rafting Group at Black Canyon

Black Canyon Walls

Black Canyon Walls

Black Canyon Walls

The only smooth rock I saw in Black Canyon

Black Canyon Trestle

Chess Lyons’ entry (1961) at about this point was:

“Colored rocks are seen on various slopes wherever the thin layer of soil has been eroded.  The rock is crushed and shattered into crumbling fragments which impart rich colors of red, yellow, cream, and white to the otherwise drab slopes.  The intense pressures that have altered these one-time granites and volcanics to their present crumbling and colorful forms, may have accompanied the intrusion of a tremendous mass of granite rock which now stands as an imposing, rocky range east of the river. “ (Lyons, p 122)

Sarah’s comments (1880) in the same area were:

”Valley of the Thompson very somber and grand – Trees scattered over the tops of the Mts – lower ones bare – road good but dust thick – Road alongside the Thompson very like that on the Frazer – cut into the mountain side – up and down hill – turning in and out as the rocks may be.  Scene about “Jump off Bluff” [unknown where this is] very grand – Mountain terraces very fine – General character bare, bold - & more open that on the Frazer.  … Railway works generally going on in various places along the opposite bank, at present disconnected.” ( Bridge, p 181)

Our lunch, though simple, was wonderful.  The crew laid out a couple of camp tables of buns, meats, veggies, cheeses, salads and fruit.  My, my what a wonderful feast was laid out in this stunning part of the river.

As we carried on down river we rode a few more rapids as we passed by large ranches like Kirkland, Martel and Basque now run by the Cooks Ferry Indian Band, hills of rich reds and browns and creams, more amazing railroad construction, little rivers dropping into the Thompson, islands formed by landslide or accretion from the constantly meandering course of the river.  We passed one area where the landslide area has been continually moving since about 1951; which has caused many problems for the railways.

About 15 km south of Black Canyon, we put in at a little spot on the dry, hot and barren river bench above the river, is a small (very small) community of Pukhaist (or Pukaist or Pokeist). It is practically deserted at this point but at one point the area may have been home to as many as 800 souls. 

There are a few old buildings, one house which is still lived in and a little Anglican/ Nlak’pamux Church (St. Aiden’s) which was likely built in the late 1800s.  It has, I believe, been de-consecrated (which means there are no public services); however, clearly someone is keeping the church and the altar clean and the building tidy.  It is very isolated; however, with the huge and amazing talus slope behind it is a very powerful image.

Pukheist talus

Hoodoos above Pukheist talus 

Pukheist fencing

Pukheist Church

Pukheist church altar

The altarpiece says "The Lord's Supper.  This do in Remembrance of Me". 

old Pukheist outbuildings

Old Pukheist outbuildings

We arrived in Spences Bridge at about 5pm.  It is a very historic little town suffering a slow decline in population.  Before the white settlers came, it was one of the principal points for inter-tribal trade (Lyons, p 115) and during the Gold Rush, the Cariboo Wagon Road went through town.  The community built up along those streets with roadhouse/hotels, supply stores, school and an Anglican Church.  It still caters to passing travelers with a couple of small hotels, RV park and nice little eateries, pub, etc.  

The route we took out of town (River View Avenue) was part of the original wagon road.  I swear, if we had not been on a shuttle bus, I could have felt the rocking of the stagecoach, heard the creaking of the wagon sides and the snuffling of horses.  

When we reached the Resort we were wet and cold but we had huge grins on our faces – we’d had a super time.  I could not stop shivering and had a hard time getting my feet warm.  All the clothes and shoes came off and fresh ones on.  We hung the wet stuff out on our balcony where we hoped they would dry in the late afternoon sun which was just going down in the west.  Dinner was again in the Cutting Board Restaurant.  While we had the evening free to explore or relax, we were pretty darned tired, had to pack for our departure the following day, and were in bed by 9.  I slept like the proverbial log and did not even hear the trains.

We dragged ourselves out of bed and put on our rafting clothes again.  Most of them were dry (thank goodness I brought extra socks); however, the runners were still wet.  Oh well, they’d be wetter once we got on the river. 

Day 2 Float Trip & Whitewater, Spences Bridge to Lytton

After another lovely breakfast, we checked out, put our gear in the car and headed back to Spences Bridge in the bus.  The Kumsheen information indicates:

“This river section is what has made the Thompson River famous. We discover the geology, flora and fauna, and learn the natural history along the valley and river corridor. Two stops before lunch.  The last 16 km we get immersed in the best whitewater along the river from the safety of our large rafts.”

As we pulled out of Spences Bridge on the raft, Bernie told us the history of a terrible landslide (the last in a sequence of three within 15 years) which occurred in 1905.  Millions of tons of clay and mud broke away from a mountain above the town, completely covered the river, both banks and the Native village below causing loss of about 15 lives.  The River was blocked for days and rose 10 to 15 feet behind the deposited earth.  The remains of the slide on the west side of the river is about 80 feet high and on the east side of the river are hummocks 20 to 30 feet high (Lyons, p 112) It was a huge catastrophe. 

Near site of 1905 Spences Bridge slide

 We stopped off (yes, I needed assistance getting out of the raft and getting up the slit bluff) near a little lake (Mud Lake).  Bernie’s book notes that:

“The bluff contains material that settled out of a glacial lake from an earlier ice age about 65,000 years ago as well as sediment from the most recent ice age of about 10,000 years ago.  A layer of 7,700 year old volcanic ash, originating from Mount Mazuma near Crater Lake, Oregon, is evident near the top of the bluff.  It proves that volcanic eruptions like the one at Mount St. Helens in 1980 are not unique”.  (Fandrich, p 72)

Mud Lake

Mud Lake

Mud Lake is also a unique ecosystem for rare and endangered wildlife including: Lewis’ Woodpecker, Great Blue Heron, Spotted Bat, Western Rattlesnake, Western Yellow-Bellied Racer, Gopher Snake and Great Basin Spadefoot toad.  For some the site represents the only good foraging and breeding habitat in the region.  Human disturbance and other features threaten the ability of these and other species to survive.  The Cooks Ferry Indian Band is committed to protecting this sensitive habitat and species and has laid fencing to prevent further habitat destruction and degradation (plaque at the site of Mud Lake).

A bit south of Spences Bridge, is a huge slide (Drynoch) which has been oozing or pushing silt and mud towards the river for between 3 and 6,000 years.  Glacial ice melt occurred about 9,500 years ago; cultural remains and charcoal from fire pits are dated to 7,500 years; volcanic ash has been traced back 6,600 years; tree roots were uncovered dated to 3,200 years ago indicate the slide was active then. 

My great grandmother’s diary of 1880 notes:

“ Had to pass over large moving mudslide a mile half long” (Bridge, p 130).  

A 1982 National Research Council report notes how the Trans Canada Highway had been disrupted and needed to be moved further away from the river. 

In Bernie’s book he notes:

“Drynoch Slide has created problems for the Cariboo Wagon Road, the Trans Canada Highway and the CPR.  A major stabilization program in the early 1960’s attempted to slow the slide’s movement, but as can be seen from the river, it has not stopped moving yet. … it has pushed the river westward, causing it to carve a channel into the solid rock of the west bank, and forcing the CNR to construct a series of tunnels and blast out a bench on which to lay the tracks.” (Fandrich p 79)

one of the little creeks entering the river

As well, I believe about 10,000 years ago a glacial ice dam released in this area feeding the river water south to the Fraser River rather than North to the Peace River or Columbia River basins.  This meant the geology was more strictly rocky bedrock and not just silty glacial deposit.  One thing the slide and change in geology did was put us into more rough water and rapids.  Well, that was really what we were here for, right?  I was not able to take a lot of photos while we were riding the rapids. 

Bernie notes: “from here down to Lytton, the river gradient changes from one in three meters per kilometer, resulting in more and bigger rapids.” (Fandrich p 80).  We powered up lovely big standing waves and dove down into the green and white foamy water … bucking in the waves like wild horse riding … holding onto the lead line for dear life.  And then we went back through the eddy and did it again, and again.  Cue maniacal laughter again.

My word, we were into wonderful scenery.  Little red rock canyons with pink and mauve cliffs, creamy hoodoos, river gouged inlets into the bedrock, volcanic outcroppings, road and railway bridges which must have taken nerves of steel to build, huge glacial gravel deposits which continue to slide gravel onto road and railbeds.  We got huge rapids rides.  Per Bernie: “building to five meters, they can curl back and unload tons of green water onto your lap” (Fandrich, p 87) … and they did. 

On the River with Bernie

After getting thoroughly energized and wet through the rapids, we pulled in to the mouth of the Nicoamen River where, after being assisted out of the slippery raft and rocks, we hiked up the hill in the heat to historic Nicomen House for lunch.  With the advent of the gold rush, a roadhouse was built and I believe there has been some form of a welcoming house there ever since.  In my great grandmother’s diary, she refers to:

“Watered our horses at Nicomen Mills.  Had cup of tea and bit of B. & Butter without leaving the carriage.  Admired the Waterfall from the high rock - & the bold creek running beside the house.”  (Bridge, p 182)

Kumsheen purchased the property in 2006 and restored the building whose façade now looks like one of the historic hotels in Lytton (Globe) in the 1860s. With the stunning 200-foot-high Nicomen Falls as a natural backdrop, Nicomen House has a huge, wrap around deck that overlooks the River and falls.

We stripped off as much wet clothing as we decently could and set them outside to dry on the rocks as we hustled in for the wonderful layout of food our hosts provided.  It was a hot, hot day and another delicious do-it-yourself meal of fajitas (ground beef, lettuce, beans, tomatoes, cheese, salsa, sour crème), salad, juice or water.  I’ve never been too good with do it yourself meals, so the fajita I made for myself was absolutely huge.  I not only managed to eat it but went back for desert of fresh fruit.  It was marvelous!

Nicomen Falls area

Once lunch was through, we girded our loins for the last 16 kilometers of the rafting adventure.  It is a famous stretch of whitewater synonymous with the Thompson River.  Once back on the river, we were immediately into the “Tadpole Rapids” leading into “The Frog” (large rock in the middle of the river which resembles a giant bullfrog), the first rapid in the Devil’s Gorge. 

Our raft going through the Frog Rapids

Next we were swept into a huge wave (river goes over a bedrock shelf and creates a large surf type wave).  Following this, we were into things called the Washboard Rapids,  something’s Folly, Devil’s Kitchen, Garburator, Witch’s Caldron, etc.  It was a huge amount of fun and at sometimes a tad scary.  Spent most of the midafternoon with my arms behind my knees holding onto the lead rope for dear life and we bucked and bounced over rapid after rapid. 

As we came to the end of our trip, we passed by the incredible “White Canyon” which was right across from our tent cabin.  Seeing it from the river rather than across the river was quite an experience.  Bernie’s book indicates:

Without a doubt, White Canyon is the most stunning feature along the Thompson and representative of the most spectacular geology along the river. … (Fandrich, p 114).”

Chess Lyons’ book notes:

“The view down the Canyon shows the white-crested waters of the azure Thompson River running between high walls carved from the solid rock.  Coloured cliffs rise above the railroad and, in the background, high peaks dominate the lower, more rounded mountains.  … Erosive action of wind and water has cut and grooved the mass of mountains across the river into a myriad of gullies and ravines.” (Lyons, p 98)

My great grandmother’s diary notes, slightly less magnificently:

”The scenery improving – banks of the Thompson very interesting – mountains grand & simple – with broad, pleasing effects.“

White Canyon from the River

A few more rapids along (Bearclaw, Pre-Rinse, Washing Machine rapids) and we were at the confluence of the Thompson and the Fraser Rivers.   Per Bernie’s book (page 121) The relatively clean, azure Thompson contrasts sharply with the brown, muddy, silt-laden Fraser.  The First Nations people called this phenomenon "kumsheen" – two great rivers mingling. 

And our trip was done.  What a great couple of days.  Wet feet and all.  Yes, I’d do it again – but would try to keep my feet drier somehow <g> 

Kamloops Photo Arts Club weekend away in Wells Gray Park. June 24 to 26, 2016

The Kamloops Photo Arts Club (and I) recently had a weekend away in Wells Gray Park.  While I am not a great photographer, the setting just begs for photography and makes everyone look pretty good.  I share some history and photographs with you.

Per Wikipedia, “Wells Gray Provincial Park is a large wilderness park located in east-central British Columbia, Canada. The park protects most of the southern, and highest, regions of the Cariboo Mountains and covers 5,250 square kilometres (524,990 hectares or 1.3 million acres).  … It bears the nickname "Canada's Waterfalls Park" because 39 waterfalls are found within its boundaries. There are actually many more, if you count the numerous creeks that cascade down the mountainsides.

The northern two-thirds of the park is extremely rugged with relief ranging from Clearwater Lake at an elevation of 680 m (2,231 ft) to 2,946 m (9,665 ft).  These summits are part of the ancient Cariboo Mountains.  They contain the oldest rocks in the park, some of which may have originated as ocean bottom sediments 1.2 billion years ago. 

Most of the east boundary of the park follows the mountain divide between drainage into the North Thompson River and into the Clearwater River.  Individual mountain groups dominate the topography of the northern park region and are separated by deep glacially carved valleys, several of which contain large lakes. The ruggedness of its features has ensured that northern Wells Gray remains little known except to the hardiest of backpackers.

The southern third of the park is traversed by the Clearwater Valley Road, although large areas are accessible only by trail. The dominant topography features volcanic plateaus, lava flows and deep canyons which are crowned by several peaks over 2,300 m (7,546 ft) high. The waterfalls, for which Wells Gray is famous, usually result from the interaction of volcanic eruptions and glacial activity. “

The first evening we walked out to Dutch Lake where we saw no waterfalls but much interesting habitat.  

We stayed at the Wells Gray Inn which had great food.  Would have loved it even more if the parents of the children down the hall had been there to monitor them. 

The second day we went to a number of falls and other areas.

Third Canyon Falls 

Ray Farm. The residence consists of the remains of a one-storey, square, four-roomed dwelling constructed of logs, with a now-collapsed pyramidal roof.
Constructed in 1940, it is important for its historical, aesthetic and interpretive values. Although the building is abandoned and will be allowed to decay naturally over time, the Ray Farm Residence is valued for its interpretive ability to demonstrate a former way of life in the early pioneering settlements of the North Thompson and Clearwater valleys prior to the creation of Wells Gray Provincial Park.

As we continued up the road, we stopped to have a look at some interesting beauties of nature including: flowers (paintbrush, yellow flag iris – invasive, pink spieria, tiger lily), bird (black capped chickadee), animals (fox, skunks), insects (spitbug foam, inchworm, bee)

 Bailey’s Chute is a short walk off the road.  The trail winds through a delightful wildflower garden (bunchberry, variety of small green plants and ferns) and ancient stands of magnificent cedars.  

The Chute plunges 8 meters over ancient bedrock and is a very impressive specimen of the type of turbulent waters of the Clearwater River we saw throughout the day. 

There were also some small round holes in the rocks next to the chute.  I believe these were eroded away in the bedrock and the force of the water.  

Helmcken Falls is a 141 m (463 ft) waterfall on the Myrtle River within the park. The protection the falls was one of the reasons for the creation of Wells Gray Provincial Park in 1939.  It is the fourth highest waterfall in Canada, measured by total straight drop without a break. 

The falls drop over the western escarpment of the Myrtle Plateau. This is a huge lava deposit in the Wells Gray-Clearwater volcanic field which erupted from nearby fissures starting 200,000 years ago and filled the wide valley of the Clearwater River.  Layer upon layer of fresh lava created the plateau, then enormous floods eroded the lava at the close of the last ice age, about 10,000 years ago. These floods created Helmcken Canyon below the falls.

Mushbowl Falls is located about 5 km by road from Helmcken Falls.  The Myrtle River drops 5 m (16 ft) here and is split by a central rock.  The waterfall is located here because of Cambrian rock which has resisted erosion.  The park road bridges the Myrtle River at The Mushbowl via a little one-way wooden bridge.  The name was given to this waterfall prior to 1940 and it is a good description of the water's action.  We were fortunate enough to catch the waterfall with a little rainbow on the left hand side.  

Dawson Falls are located 600 m (1,969 ft) upstream from the Mushbowl.  At the falls, the river drops over lava flows that date to about 200,000 years ago.  Below the lava are compacted sand and gravel deposits left by a river that predated the eruption.

That evening we (about 20 of us) had a delicious dinner at the Wells Gray Inn Banquet Room.  The meals were very good (and very large) and the service (though there were not many servers) was really swift and courteous.  

The following day we headed up to Spahats Falls.  Like the larger Helmcken Falls, Spahats Falls owes its formation to deposits of volcanic rock in the Wells Gray-Clearwater volcanic field.  

 

Starting about 300,000 years ago, numerous eruptions from Trophy Mountain poured into the Clearwater River Valley and filled it layer upon layer to a depth of over 300 m (980 ft).  Common references place the falls at around 60 m (197 ft) tall, but taking into account the second tier, it is closer to 75–80 meters tall.

All in all, the trip to Wells Gray was an amazing experience.  Fresh air, stunning waterfalls, nature abounding, excellent company and photographers willing to share their knowledge with a “newbie”.  Great time.